I’ve written this story once before but due to the vagaries of computer hard drives, backups, crashes, etc., I can’t seem to find the original. So now I’m going to do my best to recreate it.
Arriving in Cuzco for the start of my archeological expedition I came in a few days early, both to acclimate myself to the altitude (13,300 ft) as well as do some general exploring. As my friends well know, I have a penchant for exploring alleys, which, might not be the smartest move in a country you’ve never been in and can’t speak the language and carrying $1000’s of dollars of camera equipment but nonetheless it’s what I do. It’s the nature of the beast.
So I’m exploring the ancient city of Cuzco (curiously enough, the only city in the world where people still live in archaeological settlements!) and I’m going down dirt-covered streets with no idea where the hell I am or even how to get back to the hotel. I know I’ll figure that out later. And my stomach rumbles. I’m hungry. I know almost zero Spanish. So I walk into this little nook-in-the-wall Mom & Pop restaurant, dirt floors and everybody looks-up as I enter. Here I am, a tall white guy wearing a traveler’s vest and cameras slung over my shoulder and then the proprietess, a middle-aged rotund lady came around and chatting animatedly escorted me to a table. All I could mumble was “Gracias” and “No habla”. She gave me a menu I couldn’t read and then reaching into my mind for the only other bits of Spanish I knew I asked for “Hugo de Naranja” (Orange Juice) and “Pollo Omelleto” (Chicken omellete).
In a few minutes she brought me both - it was by far the most exquisite meal I’ve ever had in my life! The Omellete was prepared perfectly, with just a slight burnt, crisp edge. I didn’t know what the custom on tipping was but I left a huge wad of foreign notes for her on the table as I paid my bill and she continued animatedly talking to me as I left, sated, and headed back out into the dusty streets for more exploring.
Along the way, I picked up some kids. They were interested in this ‘foreigner’. Fortunately, I had “my jacket”. My jacket was filled with innumerable goodies just for this eventuality. I gave out candy and balloons to all the kids and they all greedily took them and then quickly ran away. Except for one. Runny-nosed and barefoot, looking about 6 or 7 years old he stayed with me. I gave him a Pez dispenser shaped like a truck and showed him how it worked. The smile on his face could have melted anyone! I know it did me. It was a strange experience - I couldn’t talk to him due to my ignorance of his language and he seemed rather reticent himself.
By this time it was lunchtime and I found myself in front of a rather posh restaurant and thought nothing of going in and having a fine meal. I got a huge slab of chicken with all the fixin’s, wine, etc., for about $6.00.
I could see my little buddy outside playing with his Pez dispenser, delighted.
Then it dawned on me - if I had not been so self-absorbed I would have brought him in to this place, a place that probably he nor any of his family could probably never afford and bought him lunch. I felt like a heel. I still do.